Sunday 26 January:
I left Kaikoura on a really sunny day and started photographing the art work on the reconstructed SH1 concrete retaining walls built in 2016 after the Kaikoura Earthquake.
This protection wall to a railway tunnel entrance encompassed Maori artwork as did other walls alongside the road.
Once again while stopping for photos the Coastal Pacific came thundering into view.
There are two fare classes on this train, the top class (in the black and white carriage above) has formal dining and waiter-waitress meal and bar service included in the fare. The “peasant” class (behind the b/w carriage) can purchase takeaway meals and drinks from a separate café to have at their seats.
The tourists in the observation car got a good view of me as they passed by.
There are two sets of double road tunnels on this part of the highway (not to mention the 20 railway tunnels on this section of the rail route).
I messaged Zayell Johnston (the Canadian walker guy) on Facebook to ask how he managed walking through these tunnels, and he replied that he went through at 6am (no traffic), otherwise he might have had to run (there is absolutely no clearance for a cyclist or walker in these road tunnels).
This trip I am again doing side road visits to areas Lexie and I never visited over the years, though passing these many times. Today it was to the coast at Nape Nape south and east of Cheviot. This involved a side road to the Hurunui River mouth, then cross country gravel roads to Nape Nape Reserve on the coast.
The coastal view south from the Hurunui River mouth (the small patch of blue water in the left centre of this photo). It turned out that Nape Nape is right at the foot of those white cliffs on the horizon.
After crossing the Hurunui suspension bridge it was 30km of gravel road to the coast at Nape Nape.
But, I then hit the coast and did a right turn to follow a gravel track to the Reserve, but no-go with the motorhome (I did not trust the “high clearance” claim) – so a good walk was the order of the day.
I got to 1½ km and decided not to go all the way to the bush line at the reserve (beyond the white 4WD ute in the distance), but as you can see, I was almost at the edge of those white cliffs.
So it was on to Glenmark Reserve at Waipara to freedom camp for the night, arriving in brilliant sunshine to relax with a drink under the awning.
There was eventually a line of 10 campers set up for the night here.
I had just finished my drink (green tumbler in the doorway) when there was a loud burst of thunder in the distance behind me and soon the sky darkened and two thunderstorms took out the rest of the day.
The Coastal Pacific came past 7pm on its return journey to Christchurch, just visible through the pouring rain.
Monday 27 January:
I took off early from Glenmark and drove in steady rain to Christchurch and on through the Lyttelton Tunnel to visit the township. It was busy with a huge cruise ship in town.
The ship was the Royal Princess. As I explored the main street of Lyttelton locals greeted me and asked if I was from the cruise liner (??). After more rain the sun suddenly came out and the rest of the day was hot and fine.
There was loads of street art in Lyttelton, but this statue of a husky sled dog commemorated the fact that both Shackleton and Scott departed the port after resupplying for their Antarctic expeditions.
I then took the Evans Pass road over the hills into Sumner, but on stopping to view the Foreshore Esplanade noticed a half flat rear left tyre. So I called the AA and they sent a patrol guy out to change the wheel. I then went back into town and arranged to purchase two new tyres for the rear wheels (they were well worn after 10 years) and booked in with Bridgestone Tyres near my Holiday Park for 8am Tuesday morning.
Tuesday 28 January:
It only took an hour from 8am to 9am to get new tyres fitted leaving me a full day to explore Christchurch. The “grotty” spare wheel was returned to its storage area under the van after the new tyres were fitted.
So I headed for the Gondola Summit at Heathcote for the middle part of the day.
The view south and west takes you all the way to the Southern Alps, but real hazy conditions obscured the distant mountains.
However, the view of Lyttleton was clear (the cruise ship had sailed overnight).
Late afternoon I visited “The Tannery” where the industrial buildings had been redeveloped into a specialised shopping area. “Penny Black” (on the left) was a good place for afternoon tea.
They served old fashion “high tea” here, but I resisted the temptation and went for an iced chocolate (“would you like cream and ice-cream with that?”)
Wednesday 29 January:
The bus into city central from Papanui (where I was staying at the Tasman Holiday Park) was free with my Gold Card. However, Christchurch residents can use a Metro Card which allows them a $2.00 fare to anywhere throughout the city. They only need to tag on, and if the journey is short or long the price is the same (no need to tag off). They can make as many transfers as they like within an hour of tagging on. Most buses are now electric with incredible acceleration away from pickup stops, and fast smooth runs into the city – I was most impressed.
An “All Day” tram ticket took me on a circuit of 18 stops around the CBD enabling on/off access to loads of attractions.
The Riverside Market reminded me of Melbourne and Adelaide markets, with a narrow access alley and extensive food and drink stalls and eating places.
Mischief Cellar Door and Wine Bar was next door to Bellbird Bakery.
Chinese New Year decorations were a Market feature at this time.
However, my favourite refreshment place was “She Chocolaterie”.
It was the World Buskers Festival this week in Christchurch, with this act outside the Market entrance adjacent to the Cashel Street Bridge of Remembrance.
Another significant visit was accessed via Stop 16 on the tram route – “Quake City”.
The excellent displays covered the earthquakes of 4 September 2010 and especially the disastrous quake of 23 February 2011 (when 1,000s of homes and inner city buildings collapsed, resulting in 185 deaths and 156,745 insurance claims). The spire of the Christchurch Cathedral toppled, bringing down the Spire Cross above. This is on loan to “Quake City” until the Cathedral Restoration project wants it back to refurbish and reinstall.
So, from “Quake City” it was a two stop trip through Regent Street to Cathedral Station (Stop 1 on the tram circuit).
Regent Street is famous as it has “mirror image” buildings down its length.
Each side has an identical façade, with cafes everywhere, and the tram track passing down the centre (pedestrians – watch out!!).
Thursday 30 January:
The Margaret Mahy Family Playground on the banks of the River Avon near the Edmonds Rotunda was just that, for kids and adults together.
Mother and daughter racing each other to the top of the communal slide.
And kids are always fascinated with water.
It is quite remarkable that many older special structures like the Rotunda survived the earthquakes with minimal damage.
The rest of Thursday I spent at Ferrymead Heritage Park.
At weekends the Park is busy with tram and train rides. Today it was very quiet as can be seen by the view of Main Street below.
At one stage there only seemed to be me and a group of 5 Chinese young people around. They are here for 2 weeks touring. They spoke excellent English.
There were several large buildings displaying motor vehicles (as above), plus tractors, plus farm machinery, plus fire engines (from all over the South Island, including Invercargill).
Friday 31 January:
Orana Wildlife Park was established 1970 on 80 hectares of land on the outskirts of Christchurch and opened in 1976 with 28 animals. It now has 45 species of animals and birds and receives 95% of its income from gate takings. I spent a full day there and walked for miles. The animals have loads of area in free range settings. I was quite impressed given the free range zoos we have been to overseas.
Animals range from the small —–
—- to the tall ——
—– to the really heavy (at 2 tonne).
Saturday 1 February:
Last full day in Christchurch before heading south, and as it was to be possibly a wet one I kept the indoor Air Force Museum of New Zealand as the final day out for the week.
This rather spectacular mural greets you in the entrance atrium. The text at the base of the mural reads “Born of the sun, they travelled a short while toward the sun and left the vivid air signed with their honour” is from a poem by Stephen Spender entitled “The Truly Great”.
Displays ranged from this replica of the Bleriot which was the first plane to cross the English Channel from France to England ——-
—— to this twin pilot Skyhawk —–
—- to this DC3 VIP aircraft which the Queen used during her 1953 tour, to dozens of military aircraft and the stories of men, women and machines.
On my way south tomorrow, and probably freedom camping on the Canterbury Plains.
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