ADELAIDE, THE GHAN and DARWIN – 26 July to 17 August 2024

Introduction

These notes cover twenty-three days travel to, from, and in Australia over 3 weeks 26 July to 17 August 2024, involving two days (two nights) in Auckland, three days (four nights) in Adelaide, three days (two nights) on The Ghan Adelaide to Darwin, seven days (eight nights) in Darwin, four days (three nights) on The Ghan Expedition Darwin to Adelaide, and two days (three nights} in Adelaide before flying back to NZ.

Tauranga to Auckland [Friday 26 July]

Tauranga Airport is small and comfortable, and at the time I left, 2pm, was very busy with four Air NZ aircraft boarding flights for destinations around the country. I had parked the car in the long-term parking area (which was large and nearly full) before exploring the terminal and having lunch.

There was a photo (above) and storyboard in the terminal re Oscar Garden “one of New Zealand’s greatest aviators”. Born in 1903 in Scotland he emigrated to NZ in 1921 but returned to England and learned to fly in 1930. With only 19 hours flying time he purchased a second hand Gypsy Moth and set off in secret on 16 October 1930 to fly to Australia in order to accumulate enough flying hours to obtain his commercial pilot’s licence. He landed unannounced in Wyndham WA 18 days later gaining world fame for the third fastest flight England to Australia at that time. He subsequently delivered the first flying boat for Tasman Empire Airlines (TEAL) from the UK to NZ, became chief pilot and operations manager for TEAL (the forerunner of Air NZ) and was considered at that time to be one of the most capable pilots in the world. He left TEAL in 1947 and in 1953 moved to Tauranga where over the next 25 years became a renowned tomato grower, growing tomatoes like he flew planes, “to perfection”. His story is told by daughter Mary (who grew up in Tauranga) in her book “Sundowner of the Skies” published in 2019 and shortlisted for the 2020 NSW Premier’s History Award.

So, a quick flight to Auckland —–

—–then an overnight stay at the Airport Novotel.

Auckland to Adelaide [Saturday 27 July]

This early-morning Air NZ flight was to take me to Melbourne for a 3 hour stopover before a Qantas flight on to Adelaide, arriving mid-afternoon local time. However after our Boeing 787-9 was pushed back from the gate and engine start-up commenced an acrid smell began filling the cabin and the engines were suddenly shut down. The Captain advised that there appeared to be some sort of cross-connection between engine exhaust and the plane’s air-conditioning system which they were looking into.

Some 20 minutes later we were advised the flight was being abandoned, and we would be pushed back onto a parking area and deplaned into buses to return to the terminal. Once back in the terminal Air NZ staff apologised and advised

first, that there was sufficient spare capacity today on flights leaving NZ for Melbourne to ensure we would all get there;
second, that as we had technically “left” the country on an international flight, but now returned, we would need to fill out arrival cards, collect our bags and go through customs and quarantine inspections, and return to the check-in area for our new flight;
third, all people with duty-free goods would need to return these for refund;
fourth, a “disruption team” had been set up to rebook everyone to their final destination for the day, and we would be advised by text message as to details of our new flight(s).

A few minutes later a lady behind me gave a gasp and exclaimed “They are sending me to Queenstown to catch a Virgin Airways flight to Melbourne – I was flying business class with Air NZ, and I totally dislike Virgin”. Then a young man in black tee-shirt and backward peaked cap began sounding off to all around with loud and obnoxious complaints about the situation.

About 20 minutes later I received a text with my new flight times, leaving 2pm for Melbourne then straight on to Adelaide. So out through customs and to a café for lunch. Two ladies at the lunch table next to me asked if I had received my new flight details (which I had) as they had not yet received word. I said it was likely that the rebooking team were dealing initially with first and business class (as per the lady going to Queenstown), then second with through flights into Melbourne and on to other Australian destinations (my situation), and finally those passengers only going to Melbourne (such as them). I assured them they should get word soon, and at that point their phones “dinged” and their bookings arrived (they said I had brought them luck!!).

I was so impressed with the way Air NZ handled the situation (with a formal printed letter of apology handed out to everyone in the disembarkation lounge within minutes of our deplaning) and with the speed of the rebooking process that I found a “Compliments Page” on the Air NZ website and sent them the following message:

Thanks Air NZ for the brilliant work your team did in helping to solve the difficulties arising from having to abandon yesterday morning’s flight NZ121 from Auckland to Melbourne. They were courteous, timely and informative, and I was most impressed with the quick rebooking of my through flight to Adelaide. I was disappointed with the behaviour of one young man who was f***ing this and f***ing that in complaining to all around him, and when picking up an arrival card at the desk loudly said “we need to get compensation for this “. What a nutter. My compensation was the excellent service provided by your disruption team. Well done. Warm regards, Ian

Subsequently I received the following response from Air NZ:

Kia ora Ian

Thank you for your email highlighting the service you received from our Auckland Airport ground staff recently.

We encourage our staff to go above and beyond where possible and to let their personality shine through. I’m delighted to learn they lived up to our brand values of putting customers at the core of our service and welcoming them as a friend.

I have since shared your email with the Air New Zealand airport Manager so that the staff can be commended for their efforts.

Thanks again for reaching out with your feedback. Disrupts are very stressful for our staff and it’s so nice to hear such kind words. We look forward to welcoming you back on one of our future services.

Ngā mihi,

Sue

Fortunately, the original flight to Melbourne was not full, which no doubt assisted the rebooking operation.

Abandoned flight NZ121 parked on the tarmac from where we were bussed back to the terminal

My through flights Melbourne and on to Adelaide were on a Qantas Boeing 737 similar to the jet aircraft used by Air NZ on our main city routes. The service was good, with just enough time in Melbourne to clear customs then check-in at the domestic terminal to catch the flight to Adelaide, eventually arriving at the Mantra Hindmarsh Share in central city just before 10pm Adelaide time. It was a long day with a 5am start in Auckland and Adelaide 1 ½ hours behind.

Adelaide [Sunday 28 July]

This was a “visit to the seaside” day, using the tram to Glenelg. Tram and bus travel within a defined city area is free, but outside this area paying for bus or tram is as simple as “tag on-tag off” using a credit card. Glenelg on the west coast of the city is well known for its pier and expansive sandy beach. The 1920’s “bathing boxes” have now been replaced by huge apartment blocks lining the foreshore, with the main street full of restaurants and specialty shops.

Moseley Square looking west to the foreshore. Town Hall and Museum on the right.

Glenelg tram terminus in Moseley Square, a $6 ride from the city.

The current exhibition at the Museum was “Tiati”, the Kaurna word for “Truth”. On 19 February 1836 King William IV of Britain issued Letters Patent establishing the province of South Australia. This document required that the colony could only proceed if lands occupied by settlers were fairly purchased from the Aboriginal population and that land purchase transactions were to be supervised by the government appointed Protector of Aborigines. The letters Patent directed the following;

Provided Always that nothing in those our Letters Patent contained shall affect or be construed to affect the rights of any Aboriginal Natives of the said province to the actual occupation or enjoyment on their own Persons or in the Persons of their Descendants of any Lands therein now actually occupied or enjoyed by such Natives.

However, despite the clear instructions from the British Monarch that the Aboriginal population were to be recognised under the rule of law, the colony went on to appropriate land without treaty or compensation. The Tiati exhibition recognised that Aboriginal Australians have long called for an inclusive process of truth-telling about this history.

Glenelg Pier was very popular on a Sunday

Apartment blocks line the coast north and south of Moseley Square

Adelaide [Monday 29 July]

There are two free circular bus circuits in Adelaide, one around the inner city and the other around the inner and North Adelaide city areas. In addition there are two free tram routes within the main city area, one east/west between the museum/art gallery/university out to the Entertainment Centre, the other north/south from the city to South Terrace from where it continues south/west to Glenelg as a paid fare trip.

Following a bus ride around the inner city to North Adelaide I stopped off in the central city at the Market, which on Mondays was open only for produce, Tuesdays to Sundays being fully open.

The free 98A bus does the anticlockwise circuit of the full city area including North Adelaide. The 98B bus does the circuit clockwise.

A key stop on the 98A route is the Central Market

I decided to come back Tuesday to visit the fully open market, so explored China Town next door before heading back to Rundle Mall, the main shopping precinct for the city. The major department stores (Meyer and David Jones) plus Coles and Woolworths Supermarkets are accessed from the Mall, with several arcades providing for every commercial activity one can imagine. Adelaide Arcade is the most famous, and was my main access route from the Mantra Hotel through to Rundle Mall.

China Town adjacent to Central market.

Adelaide Arcade and its famous fountain in the Mall

The Arcade interior stretches through a full city block.

Lunch at KOKO BLACK, Lexie’s and my favourite chocolate shop in Australia.

The Rundle Mall pig sculptures are a favourite with children.

They love touching them and cannot keep their hands off.

Adelaide [Tuesday 30 July]

It was back to Central Market in the morning then a visit to the State Library and Museum in the afternoon. The two floors of the Aboriginal wing at the Museum are reputed to house the largest collection of Aboriginal artefacts in Australia.

There were many fruit stalls throughout the Market but only one flower stall.

The butcher’s stall behind the flowers was one of several meat and fish stalls.

The Mortlock Wing of the State Library is regularly included on the list of most beautiful libraries in the world.

State Library entrance with the Mortlock Wing on the right.

In the Museum the whale sculpture woven from freshwater rushes represents Kondini, Keeper of Fire.

Aboriginal shields were not only used in battle but represented the identity of the owner.

The Ghan [Wednesday 31 July 2024]

The Ghan on this trip to Darwin over 3 days and two nights comprised 31 carriages and 4 restaurant cars, 4 lounge cars (with bars) and with two engines had a total length of 780 metres. It had capacity for 220 travellers but on this journey there were just 188 guests on board.

Yes, that is me in the reflection above the iconic symbol of the Afghan camel rider.

I took a twin cabin. Mains power outlets enabled me to charge camera, phone and iPad batteries overnight.

The landscape window provided great viewing during the trip.

Facilities included bathroom complete with shower and toilet.

The Queen Adelaide restaurant served superb meals throughout the trip —–

—– and the lounge car provided great views from large windows on both sides of the train.

The Ghan [Thursday 1 August 2024]

The day started with a dawn stop at Marla, an outback location in South Australia where engine crew changes were made. We all exited the train at 6:30 to watch the sun rise (3 degree temperature) while we enjoyed coffee and bacon and egg butties around log fires. Then it was on to Alice Springs, Northern Territory, for an off-train experience to Standley Chasm.

The Ghan at Marla stretching over ¾ of a km back along the track.

Bacon and egg buttie and coffee at dawn while waiting for sunrise.

Even the crows were waiting to view the sunrise at Marla.

And so to Alice Springs for an off-train experience

The gorge leading to Standley Chasm was rich with plants of medicinal significance.

The Chasm walk was a cultural experience with our aboriginal guide on the left.

The Ghan [Friday 2 August 2024]

The main event on Friday was the off-train experience with a cruise on the Katherine River into the Nitmiluk Gorge. It was May 2006 when Lexie and I visited the Gorge and took the cliff-top walk to the Baruwei Lookout.

The upper Gorge area. We had to walk between boats on the lower and upper gorge as they were separated by rapids.

Vertical fractured sandstone walls lined the gorge.

These freshwater crocodiles are totally harmless to humans. Note the narrow pointed jaws.

A swimming hole where bathers were oblivious of the downstream crocodile. The rapids are at the head of the pool.

Baruwei Lookout perched on the “nose” of the “crocodile head” cliff face.

It was 2006 when we trekked up to the Lookout.

Darwin [Saturday 3 August 2024]

Darwin was totally ravaged by Cyclone Tracy on Christmas Day 1974 which destroyed 70% of all buildings including many older stone built. 30,000 of the then 46,000 population was evacuated south by air until rebuilding could get underway. The current population of 140,000 lives in the many modern apartment blocks scattered throughout downtown and in villas and low rise apartments in the expanding suburbs of Casuarina in the north and Palmerston to the east. The Alice Springs to Darwin section of the railway line from Adelaide was completed September 2003 with The Ghan starting in 2004. Downtown has a small shopping area with the Casuarina Mall some 10km from the central city being the largest shopping centre in the Territory. The tourist season is May to September (the dry season), with the wet season October to March being humid and often having daily thunderstorms. During the dry tourist season days are sunny, humidity around 30%, and no rainfall.

Buses are free throughout the city during the tourist season. On the two long trips I did (Casuarina and Palmerston) aboriginal groups joined the bus and split in two, one at the front of the bus, the other at the rear, and engaged in loud conversational exchanges up and down the bus. On one trip the front of bus group became verbally aggressive and refused to quieten down when the driver argued with them from behind his protective cage. A few stops later the bus pulled in behind what seemed like a police car and four black clad officers with radios and what looked like stab-proof jackets entered the bus and quietened everyone down. They had “Transit Security” labels on their backs, and two then remained on the bus for the remainder of the journey back to the city. The aboriginal families in general were very tidily dressed in colourful outfits with cute kids in modern push chairs. It was older be-whiskered males who were the loud mouths. One chubby smiling lady sat beside me on one occasion and with a big grin turned to me and said “OK if I sit with you madam?”

My accommodation for the week was perfectly placed for access to transport, shopping and tourist locations.

Downtown apartment blocks (this one seen from the bus). Many buildings had back walls covered in murals.

Darwin [Sunday 4 August 2024]

Today was city sightseeing to the Aboriginal Arts Centre, the War Memorial gardens (with many story boards re the bombing of Darwin}, Parliament Building (called by locals the “Wedding Cake” as it was white, rectangular, and “full of fruits and nuts soaked in alcohol”), then Darwin Harbour Evening Dinner Cruise.

Medium size didgeridoos were $430.

Parliament Building (the “Wedding Cake”).

Commemorating the 80^th Anniversary of the 19 February 1942 bombing of Darwin.

Outdoor dining on the fore-deck set ready for the sunset harbour cruise.

There were many sail boats out on the harbour for the evening.

A classic Darwin sunset.

Darwin [Monday 5 August 2024]

Monday was a public holiday for the Northern Territory called “Picnic Day” which related to workers’ rights rather like our Labour Day in NZ. After doing an Explorer Bus round trip of the full Darwin area I continued back on the bus to the Art Gallery and Museum. For the evening I went to the movies at the outdoor Deckchair Cinema.

The Explorer Bus provided an all-day ticket allowing you to hop-on hop-off at tourist attractions.

The bowling green on the road into the Art Gallery and Museum was fully covered over to protect players against the sun.

Entries for the Annual Aboriginal Art Awards were on display in the Art Gallery.

The giant flightless goose skeleton from the Miocene era had some similarities to our NZ moa.

Railway Signalling tower bent in half by Cyclone Tracy, 25 December 1974.

Mural of cyclone damage based on movie camera film shot on 26 December 1974.

The Deckchair Cinema was on the foreshore below the Parliament Building terrace.

The cinema had a buffet meal available, as well as snacks and full bar service.

This possum themed notice was followed up by —-

—– this one (possums are apparently a nuisance to cinema patrons).

Darwin [Tuesday 6 August 2024]

It was a Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie 1973 movie “Don’t Look Now” last night, a thriller filmed in Venice. I did not see any possums. Today it was the Darwin History and Wartime Experience trip throughout bomb sites around the city and to the Military Museum

The history tour was via a WW II army truck.

The Military Museum has extensive displays on the February 1942 bombing of Darwin.

The Japanese carrier fleet that bombed Pearl Harbour in December 1941 carried out raids over several days on Darwin from 19 February 1942, with 188 planes on the first day cleverly flying inland to the east of the city before turning to come in from the south while the defence had their guns pointed out to sea.

This 9.2 inch gun was pointing out over the coast to challenge incoming warships

There were limited anti-aircraft batteries available in 1942, with the Japanese raids catching the military totally by surprise.

Darwin [Wednesday 7 August 2024]

The Aviation Museum was housed in a huge hanger built to accommodate a B-52 bomber on permanent loan from the US air force after it sent its bomber fleet from Guam back to the USA in 1990.

Arrival of the B-52 in Darwin on March 27 1990

Now named “The Pride of Darwin”.

There is ample display room under the wings.

Japanese Zero fighter shot down 19 February 1942

Darwin [Thursday 8 August 2024]

Today it was a visit to the flying doctor tourist facility at Stokes Wharf, and the WW II Oil Storage Tunnels under the city. The RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service) commenced 1928 as the brainchild of Reverend John Flynn, a Presbyterian minister concerned re lack of medical care for remote outback residents. The Stokes Wharf facility covered not only the history of the RFDS but also the WW II bombing of Darwin by the Japanese.

Via a hologram presentation, Flynn provided a history of the service from one small bi-plane —-

—— to 70 modern aircraft today.

Extensive story boards covered the service.

The current service sees 1,000 patients daily.

During the first Japanese raid each of the 188 Zero fighters carried a single bomb.

A video recreation of the bombing raid on the harbour where 7 ships were sunk.

After the February 1942 destruction in Darwin and the loss of the main oil storage tanks, it was decided to excavate under the city and use the resulting tunnels for oil storage. They were built into the cliffs of the Waterfront Precinct, but kept secret until being opened as a tourist attraction in 1992 on the 50^th anniversary of the bombing. Originally 11 tunnels were proposed but only 6 were completed by the end of the war. Subsequently tunnels 5 and 6 were used for jet fuel storage into the 1950s.

The Waterfront Precinct from the cliffs.

The beach and tidal pool are very popular.

There was a special entry fee for ex-soldiers.

The tunnels walkway access alongside the fuel lines.

The tourist tunnel was lined with story boards.

This tunnel was around 170m long

Darwin [Friday 9 August 2024]

In the 1800s Chinese workers flocked to the goldfields after gold was found during railway construction south of Darwin. Many stayed on as railway construction workers and continued into market gardening and retail businesses. For some time Darwin was labelled orient of the Outback with Chinese outnumbering Europeans.

The Chinese Temple and Museum entrance

The Temple was a cool restful place.

After exploring the Chinese area I spent several hours at Crocosaurus Cove not far from the Hilton. The attraction housed huge tanks holding saltwater crocodiles along with a reptile area (snakes and lizards).

80 year old “Burt” who starred in the first Crocodile Dundee movie.

The “Cage of Death” lowered a bather protected by a Perspex cylindrical tube into the tank.

Feeding time.

Reaching for a meaty bone.

The Ghan Expedition [Saturday 10 August 2024]

The return to Adelaide via The Ghan Expedition involved a four day/three night journey with a half day off-train experience in Katherine and full day experiences in Alice Springs and Coober Pedy. For Katherine it was another trip to the Nitmiluk Gorge, this time to view aboriginal rock art estimated at being over 10,000 years old.

Termite mounds viewed from the train on the way south to Katherine.

Flat topped trees in the mango orchard prevent bats perching in the foliage and destroying fruit.

Rock Art Cruise in Nitmiluk Gorge

Walking track between lower and upper gorge areas.

Animals and humans featured prominently

Circles were in places supplemented with rows of lines and hand prints.

The Ghan Expedition [Sunday 11 August 2024]

A full day at Alice Springs consisted of visits to the Alice Springs School of the Air, the Reptile Centre, and a view of Alice from War Memorial Hill. In the evening it was an open air “Dinner Under the Stars” event at the Telegraph Station for the whole train with 21 tables (each of 10 persons) enjoying a top-class 3 course meal with wines and other beverages. The School of the Air commenced in 1951 following a 1950 trial using John Flynn’s flying doctor service radio network.

Lexie would have loved visiting this school of the outback.

It currently has 120 pupils scattered over an area equal to 17% the area of Australia.

This school has the largest coverage of such schools throughout the country

Pupils come in once a term for an in-school week at Alice Springs

Lunch at Desert Park.

John Flynn’s memorial near Desert Park.

A Thorny Devil lizard at the Reptile Centre

ANZAC Hill War memorial and NT flag

Alice Springs looking out to the MacDonnell Ranges

Alice Springs Telegraph Station

Table 20

Dinner Under the Stars

Even camel rides were available at the dinner

Dinner ended with a commentary on the star filled sky

The Ghan Expedition [Monday 12 August 2024]

Overnight, after the Alice Springs dinner, the Ghan proceeded to Manguri for the Coober Pedy off-train experience. The road from Manguri to Coober Pedy is a 40km corrugated dirt road, but we diverted for a brief visit to The Breakaways. These are a series of mesas and low hills which appear to have “broken away” from the main escarpment in the area and now form a conservation park.

Outback cattle on the way to Coober Pedy.

Buses ready for the off-train experience

“Salt and Pepper” formation at The Breakaways

Multi-coloured formations characteristic of the area

Beyond The Breakaways, dead-flat outback scrubland and desert.

At this overlook we were supplied with champagne, wine, beer, soft drinks, tea or coffee.

In Coober Pedy we visited the underground Serbian Orthodox Church before lunch at the Quest Opal Mine and then a tour of the town.

Typical mullock heap landscape. Beside each mullock heap is a deep shaft, hence walking anywhere on the opal fields is prohibited.

Serbian Church entrance on the right (white door) with hall entrance in the centre and chapel windows on the far right. Ventilation tubes on the left skyline.

Church interior looking towards the Altar.

Altar close-up

Inside view of the external window at entrance to the church.

Baptismal pool with cover.

The Ghan and Adelaide [Tuesday 13 August 2024]

We passed through Port Augusta at breakfast time on the Tuesday heading away from the outback into green pastures. Our arrival in Adelaide was timed for midday.

Awaiting sunrise at Port Augusta.

The front of the train on one of the few large bends during the trip

The main highway was close to the train through to Adelaide.

A section of Snowtown windfarm, the largest in SA, with 137 turbines on western hills south of Port Augusta.

Cropping dominated local land use.

So, it was farewell to The Ghan at Parklands Terminal in Adelaide.

Adelaide [Wednesday 14 August 2024]

It was further exploring the city by tram and foot on Wednesday taking in street sculptures in Hindmarsh Square and Rundle Mall.

The Mantra Hotel room comprised two bedrooms, a lounge and kitchenette.

There was also a balcony overlooking Hindmarsh Square.

Hindmarsh Square.

Rundle Mall.

Those Rundle Mall pigs again

And a 2.5m tall pigeon in Gawler Lane

Adelaide [Thursday 15 August 2024]

This last day in Adelaide involved a bus trip to Port Adelaide and a visit to the Railway and Aviation Museums.

The historic 1869 Port Adelaide Lighthouse

Cruising is available through a lift bridge to the outer harbour area.

The railway Museum included outdoor exhibits such as this Queensland sugar train locomotive

There were also two large pavilions housing mainline locomotives and rolling stock.

Six rows of rolling stock were housed in each pavilion

An early cafeteria car.

The Aviation Museum was in two hangers but overall was not as interesting as the Darwin one. The bi-plane pictured on the main hanger doorway is the Smith brothers winning entry in the 1919 Great Britain to Australia flying race over 27 days, winning them £A10,000 (1919 currency).